Why do I bodyboard instead of surf? Actually I’m not even going to try to answer that question… but there are certain advantages. One, which is often touted by surfers as way of slandering bodyboarding, is that the learning curve for bodyboarding is shorter (to a certain level of competence… at the top level there are some of the craziest human beings on the planet, watch if you dare).
But how is that a disadvantage? The guy in the first picture wasn’t as good a wave-rider as the guy in the second. Despite that, the bodyboarder is tucking into a perfect, glassy barrel, while the surfer is steering out in front of a closeout to preserve himself and his fragile board… click to view these large; the textures of the waves are very cool (I reckon)!
- I wish I was this guy right now. Dreamy wave… stall, barrel, out!
- Now if he was a bodyboarder, he’d be using that impending closeout as a launch pad for an aerial…
