Small surprises

We’ve been having a nice spell of waves on the Goldy in the past fews days, and it’s set to continue until the weekend. Yesterday morning I went to the Spit and managed to score a really fun righthander running into the jetty, which often linked up several sections with plenty of fun little barrels on offer. Today I returned hoping for more of the same but the swell was a bit bigger and junkier, and it wasn’t working. There was a crowd on the peak next to the jetty so after I while I let myself drift over to the north side of the jetty, which rarely has any waves, but I’d seen a few interesting looking ones in the rip.

Good decision! It was pretty much one of the most mechanical and fun rip bowls I’ve ever surfed. The first section was super sucky and shallow and linked up to a tight wraparound section which was good for either a second barrel section or a bowl. The rip itself was ferocious and in between sets I had to paddle nonstop to stay in the takeoff zone, but I was the only one surfing it and I must’ve had a couple of dozen waves in an hour.

While I’ve had better quality waves this year, it was the sheer unexpectedness, not to mention the craploads of heavy little barrels, that made this morning one of my highlights of the surfing year so far!

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