Taking the day off
Johnno is taking some rec leave this week and there was word of a good south swell over the border, so we did a bit of a road trip south. It ended up being a bit of a Goldilocks story – we checked a beach that was a bit too exposed to the swell and south wind (hot), then went somewhere too protected (cold), and ended up somewhere nicely in between (just right!). Unfortunately the wind swung crosshore and mushed it up a bit before I could get many good ones but it was still fun to get some long peelers. Shots of riders were by Johnno, cheers mate.
Fat out the back with the odd mutant shorey but just not quite doing it...
The opposite extreme, super protected.
The sweet spot!
Pulling into a bigger one, not quite so clean.
This guy shreds, surfed so fast, he actually made this one and got pitted again.
I was more casual about things. So casual in fact I leaned back too far stalling for the barrel and lost all my speed when it caught up. Oops.
This guy was mates with the guy in the other pic, got some sweet ones too.
This wave went for 15 seconds, linked up three sections, this is the last. Yew.
A nice scenic walk to round out the day's surf...