Feeling the surge of speed from the wedge takeoff, then threading a fast line through a deep, hollow barrel wrapping down the line next to the breakwall, seeing a peace sign hanging into the pit from the shoulder as the last backdoor section throws nice and wide for a clean exit and a little invert bowl to top things off…
Putting the memory of a good wave into words just makes it sound a bit wanky. After all, a picture’s worth a thousand words!
My only gripe of the day was a brief GoPro malfunction that meant the two best waves of the second session didn’t record… I swear one day I will get it working in good waves. Until next time, my vicariously road tripping online friends!
* 10 points every time someone successfully identifies a post title I’ve ripped off a song.