Decision-making is hard

For example, this morning, I rocked up to a surf break and there was no-one out. I could see some circling seagulls and it’s a spot known to have a bit of marine life. The only other people in sight were grizzled old fisherman.

Paddling out alone can be a tough call. There are certain things that can tip the balance one way or another. A wave like this pretty much destroys the balance and then spits on the wreckage…

"Come and get me..."

It was good. Not as good as last week’s session, but good. I was out of position for the wave of the day, which was like this one but a foot bigger and hollower, and ended up dropping hopelessly late into what should have been an amazing barrel. Shucks, eh?

Stay tuned over the next week or so as I digest and regurgitate the events of the first short leg of my travels…

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Categories: Road Trip, Surf | Tags: , , , | Leave a comment

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