Tow In, Beat Down

So far, the South Coast has been delivering pretty much exactly what I’d expected: cool, grey days, some fun waves and some big slabs. On Sunday a swell kicked in earlier than expected, picking up from 4-6′ at dawn to a solid 8-10′ by mid morning. I drove around a bit, looking for somewhere coping with the slightly disorganised swell, but wasn’t able to find anywhere to surf.

I figured a spot like this would be unsurfable.

On the way back to my campsite, I checked back at a couple of spots. My first glimpse through the rain was a huge bomb set unloading on an outer reef and spitting. I drove up to the point and saw a crowd had gathered. A tow team was taking on a ridiculously shallow slab, which I’d checked earlier but assumed was unsurfable.

At this point I feared for his life...

Sitting on the rocks, so close to such raw ocean power, I had to give a lot of respect to these guys for putting themselves in the jaws of the beast over and over. Here’s a short video of a couple of the more gnarly wipeouts, and another picture to get you in the mood!*

He snuck into the barrel in this one, but wasn't so lucky on others!

*Mood for what, you ask? I have no idea.

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Categories: Road Trip, Surf | Tags: , , | 1 Comment

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One thought on “Tow In, Beat Down

  1. Chris

    Sheesh! How many casualties did you say there were? Put me in the mood for a hot chocolate. Keep having fun!

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