So far, the South Coast has been delivering pretty much exactly what I’d expected: cool, grey days, some fun waves and some big slabs. On Sunday a swell kicked in earlier than expected, picking up from 4-6′ at dawn to a solid 8-10′ by mid morning. I drove around a bit, looking for somewhere coping with the slightly disorganised swell, but wasn’t able to find anywhere to surf.
On the way back to my campsite, I checked back at a couple of spots. My first glimpse through the rain was a huge bomb set unloading on an outer reef and spitting. I drove up to the point and saw a crowd had gathered. A tow team was taking on a ridiculously shallow slab, which I’d checked earlier but assumed was unsurfable.
Sitting on the rocks, so close to such raw ocean power, I had to give a lot of respect to these guys for putting themselves in the jaws of the beast over and over. Here’s a short video of a couple of the more gnarly wipeouts, and another picture to get you in the mood!*
*Mood for what, you ask? I have no idea.