This is the Feeling

The one only a surfer knows…

If you didn’t smile while watching that video… are you a real person? When looking for the origin of that famous quote (without luck), I found this instead, by Johnny Glanville:

[T]hink back to the most incredible moment you experienced yourself that when trying to describe to a friend only ended in frustration. Remember how that felt, the frustration you felt in not being able to elaborate properly just how fantastic it was? That’s surfing. And describing it is supposed to be hard, because the process and the challenge of describing it is what helps you appreciate it that much more.

He’s nailed it. The number of times I’ve made the mistake of trying to explain it, only to watch eyes glaze and attention fade. It’s just not possible. Every wave is different – surfers can talk to each other about their wave conquests in terms of what they did on the wave, or what the wave did, or possibly in general terms ‘you know when the shocky just surges you forwards when you thought you’d never make it’. But none of this makes sense to people who don’t surf. There’s nothing comparable on land. Nothing. Showing does a tiny bit more than telling, but only just…

And then there’s my most popular proper video clip to date on Youtube… shame I had no idea how to compress video 5 years ago, but it tells the story of a trip to the South Australian wilderness with my Dad. At many of the spots, as you can see, I was the only one out. Nowhere near as insane as a solo journey in Patagonia, but I felt pretty exposed at times, floating in the ocean alone on a gloomy day above the reef you can see at 1:38 into the video…

It’s the ‘feeling’ of waves, like the one at 4:55 in the video, that make the countless wipeouts (that start at 4:00) worthwhile. That’s why a view like this will always excite me.

I see blue ocean, open space, a wave breaking... and the journey of discovery to get there.

And that’s why I just can’t picture myself living in the UK for any longer than I feel a real need to!

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Categories: photos, Surf, Thoughts, Videos | 1 Comment

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One thought on “This is the Feeling

  1. John

    Chuckle, smile, grin……go Kepa!

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