Here are two waves no-one has ever seen before (except me).*
Me? I just loved sitting transfixed on the headland, staring at water contorting itself in ways that were silky smooth and spectacularly chaotic at the same time.
Brenden Newton falls into the ‘crazy with death-wish’ category:
I was tempted to paddle out and take a look at this spot more closely – it’s much less gnarly than the one above, though I wouldn’t consider actually taking off at this size – but a 10 foot romping closeout set smashed through the whole bay just after this picture was taken. I decided I preferred air in my lungs and instead went for a walk.
*Not waves in the ‘surf spot’ sense. I mean actual individual waves that were whipped up somewhere out in the Pacific (or maybe Southern) Ocean, travelled hundreds of kilometres, then erupted for an all-too-brief matter of seconds before receding into spent energy and a vague sense of deja vu among some rocks who’ve seen it all before.